August 9, 2020

Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles. 

Waking up in Kagbeni, the morning sky was perfect.

Niligiri North (7061m) from the rooftop

I thought I might catch a bus or shared jeep up to Muktinath so started walking the (shockingly paved) main drag.

I ended up on foot for 3-4 hours, but still enjoyed the road walk.

The highlight was weird Serthang Selfie Park. Yep, everyone stops here to take selfies.

Happily, this viewpoint is protected from evil spirits including ZOMBIES.

I stopped too as it was my first look at massive Dhaulagiri (8167m).

Walking asphalt is super easy. And the views kept getting better.

In arid Tibetan lands these solar powered water boilers are popular.

On arrival in Ranipauwa (3710m) I went straight to Mustang Cycle to organize my bike for the next day. They recommended the newest lodge. Probably the best room I’ve had, so far.

Muktinath (3800m) is one of the holiest pilgrimage sites in the Nepali Himalaya for both Hindus and Buddhists. There are far more pilgrims than trekkers at any given time.

In the afternoon I walked up to the main temple complex above town.

Muktinath (3800m) looking back to the village.

Many pilgrims choose to ride horseback. Indeed, this seems the biggest industry in town.

It’s easy to get confused as to what’s a Buddhist temple and what’s a Shiva temple.

Vishnu is worshipped here as Muktinath, the Lord of Salvation, 􏰩􏰟while Buddhists associate the deity with Chenresig, the Tibetan bodhisattva of compassion (yes, it’s complicated).

From there I continued over 2 suspension bridges to the village of Jhong (Dzong; 3580m) on the other side of the ‘river’.

Not many take the time to cross over to the other side of the valley.

Six years ago one huge statue of Shiva was under construction. I sat on the roof at dusk, I recall. It’s finished now.

Great views from up there.

Muktinath in November is also filled with relieved trekkers having successfully crossed Thorung La (5416m) on the Annapurna Circuit, the highest most will ever climb.

That’s it between the peaks. It snowed up there during yesterday’s crossing.

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